Dabbling tired feet and hooves in the cool waters of the Gulf of Aqaba, I looked wistfully westward out over the deep blue ripples. Directly ahead, barely eight nautical miles away, lay a little Bedouin fishing village near Nabq on the shores of the Sinai. In 2023, Part II of the desert trilogy finished on that Sinai shoreline where my long-suffering feet had cooled off, in the clear waters of the same sea. Back then, I remember gazing out towards the hazy outline of Saudi Arabia. It had only been three years since the completion of the Sinai crossing and five since Pom and I raggedly completed Part I of the Trilogy, crossing the Aral Kum. The miles and years had sped past.
The Incense Route Expedition itself has been akin to time-travelling in slow motion; walking with our Bedouin and camels in time-honoured tradition, through the length of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia along the ancient Incense Route and concluding in the futuristic region of NEOM. We were travelling from the ancient past into a new, sustainable future.
Our odyssey had begun in the south-west of Saudi Arabia at Hima, a major junction of the ancient trade routes coming in from the east, south and west before heading north. Our own northward journey took us through vast, magnificent desertscapes and past imposing, massive rock formations, navigating through winding wadis, stumbling over volcanic rock, clambering up gullies, pausing at major cultural hubs. As we passed through small Bedouin communities, we talked to men, women and children. From these sources, not media, politics or scientists, we sought not to judge but to learn from the people of the land about the kingdom’s vision of a sustainable future, and how both their ancient cultural heritage alongside tomorrow’s technological developments are being harnessed to realise the kingdom’s vision of a sustainable future and the realities of the evolving role of women in adapting to this vision.
Such an ambitious desert odyssey was only accomplished as each person and component played their part. No more so than Pom Oliver, who, as Expedition Deputy, was my rock throughout , collaborating on the countless daily decisions, sharing on tactical planning, fielding administrative issues or intuitively supporting team members when and where needed. She went beyond the mile in helping me when plantar fasciitis struck and took on a lot of extra load, both metaphorically and in reality.
Whilst both Pom and I, along with our Bedouin and camels, walked the route in its entirety, key team participants Arabella Dorman, our expedition artist, braved sitting out in the desert heat, never wilting in the challenge of capturing vast and jaw-dropping desertscapes, and, much to their delight, sketching the many characterful local faces that came into our nomadic life. Crucially, Arabella is a feisty independent spirit who quite happily drive off on diversions to points of interest she felt compelled to capture on canvas.
Rose Cecil joined us alas for only the first section, having to return to UK family matters, but cut a dashing figure, usually walking with effortless grace & speed beside our camels, Bo & Peep, and during her time with us, performed a key role in running, with matron-like discipline, the early morning and evening foot clinics as well as all and any other medical needs. and keeping everyone pepped up on her bag of marching rations which seemed as bottomless as Mary Poppin's carpet bag.
Andrea Tennant joined us for the all-important final section, dedicating herself with gentle determination to learning further about the Saudi women whom we met along the way, their mindsets behind the niqab of the Saudi women and the perception of their evolving role.
A special mention in dispatches for ex-Para, expedition coach and signals pro Lee Watts, who, whilst only out for the first 5 days, made order out of the womanly chaos, established the comms systems and ensured our navigational skills were on course. Lee continued to advise online from the UK where he was simultaneously running his fitness gym and scrambling for RNLI call outs. The bedouin bonded with 'Mr Lee' immediately and missed him sorely. We’d have been lost, occasionally literally, without him.
Dr Ahmed, who occasionally accompanied us, was appointed along the way as our in-country manager as he applied himself so diligently to all our challenges. The job title in no way reflects the extent of his time, guidance and influence in helping secure permits, all manner of camel issues, trouble-shooting local politics and simply always being available at all times of need despite his busy new role as Head of Research at Tabuk University. Dr Ahmed and his family will always remain close to our hearts.
Bedouin Chief, Faisal senior, moved in mysterious ways, savvy to other local figures and communities, he would help ensure we kept ahead of the logistical challenges of permits, patrols, that water could be sourced and ,inexplicably, appear without prompting in tricky moments, such as less than friendly wild dogs or the rare unsavoury group of curious youths
Faisal junior, meanwhile, seemed to turn to his hand to anything with aptitude and a huge grin - from cooking our simple but delicious campfire suppers to foraging for provisions. First up and last to bed, he won everyone’s affection and finished up speaking English rather well. Hopefully he's now resumed his studies!
And our Sudanese camel handler, Abu Mohammed, with the mesmerising green eyes and delicious, crazy sense of humour. Some of my most memorable moments were walking alongside him as he rode one of our camels, gently singing Sudanese songs. It is thanks to Mohammed that the toast made every evening with hot camel milk, ginger and several fistfuls of sugar, is now immortalised amongst the Incense Route Expedition team and supporters, of "Jumbugglia".
An affectionate mention for the 4-leggedf members of the team, our beloved camels …
Bo and Peep. whose loyalty, grit and appetite never faded. Thank you girls.
Each of our Bedouin continguency were and will remain like family to us all.
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Our charities are the Scientific Exploration Society and The Turquoise Mountain Project. see charities
Key players included vital out-of-country figures so instrumental in putting the expedition together, including James Gilby, Duncan Schroeder, Peter Lehrell, Char Harrison and Geraldine Macgrory, plus also the enduring support of family and friends. including the enthusiastic sponsors of our camels Bo and Peep; Andrea, Michael & Lynne – all of whose without the support of whom, I’d still be at my desk planning. So with raised grubby camping mugs aloft, here’s to the successful realisation of The Desert Trilogy, with the expedition toast.
“Jumbugglia”!
